Chasing the Fire Fox
My Crazy, Unforgettable Trek into Red Panda Territory
When I first found out that there’s a creature out there that’s rare, found only in one specific pocket of the world, and possesses some of the coolest traits on the planet, I was completely hooked. I knew right then and there that I had to see it in the wild. I packed my bags, headed for the mountains, and looking back—it was hands down one of the best decisions I’ve ever made.
Here is how our wild Himalayan adventure went down.
The Starting Line: Tea Gardens & Time-Traveling Land Rovers
Our journey kicked off in Bagdogra, a gorgeous place that's famous for its endless, rolling green tea gardens.
Pic: Tea Gardens
From there, we drove up to Maneybhanjyang, a pitstop town where we had to switch vehicles to take on the brutal climb to our final destination.
While waiting for our new ride, the whole trip instantly shifted into fun mode. We had our first official group lunch, broke the ice, and got to know the fellow travelers and photographers on the team. Before we knew it, we were laughing like old friends and exploring the local market together.
Right there in the market, we ran into these incredibly old—but flawlessly maintained—vintage Land Rovers.
Pic: Vintage Land Rovers
We found out that the British originally bought them decades ago to patrol the tea gardens. Since then, they’ve been used commercially to trek people up and down the steep mountain tracks. Literally nothing has changed on these rugged beasts except for the seats being modified for comfort. They are living, breathing history on wheels!
As we pushed upward, we also got a chance to see a very old monastery.
Pic: Very Old Monastery
It’s got a massive history behind it, and locals say many renowned monks have spent years meditating there. You can actually feel that peaceful, ancient vibe the moment you get close.
View at 9,600 Feet: The "Sleeping Buddha"
Eventually, we arrived at our homestay in a tiny village called Tumling, which sits on the edge of Singalila National Park at a higher altitude of 9,600 feet.
Pic: Singalila National Park
Singalila is a high-altitude protected zone in the Darjeeling district, sharing borders with Sikkim to the north and Nepal to the west. It’s about 78.6 square kilometers of pure wilderness, first declared a wildlife sanctuary in 1986 and upgraded to a national park in 1992. I learned that there are a couple of other local villages up here that primarily exist to support red panda conservation.
Both on the road and right from our homestay, we got to see the spectacular Kanchenjunga mountain range.
Pic: Kanchenjunga mountain
These peaks tower well over 8,000 meters, and during sunset and sunrise, they form a perfect, breathtaking silhouette known as the "Sleeping Buddha." The sight was so grand, so deeply moving, Honestly, I don't even have the words to describe how magical it looked.
Shivering at 0°C for the Star Trails Shot
The first day we arrived, we were supposed to just settle down and rest. But then we got news that the sky was perfectly clear and a glorious full moon was coming up. Our photography mentor instantly saw the golden opportunity to do some astrophotography, and absolutely no one in the team hesitated.
The clear sky and full moon beautifully lit up the entire Kanchenjunga range. We hiked to a good vantage point, set up our tripods, and started capturing a gorgeous Star Trail.
Pic: Star Trail
Meanwhile, the freezing mountain winds were testing our limits. My watch showed 3°C, but with those icy Himalayan gusts gushing past us, it easily felt like 0°C or below!
The next day, we headed deep into the woods with our mentor, setting up camp and waiting for the local trackers to signal us for action.
The Fellowship of the Lens
The next morning, we headed deep into the woods to camp and wait for tracking updates. Our crew was a diverse group of seven individuals from different walks of life.
Pic: From Right to left: Mr.Jayanta, Mr.Anik, Mr.Vittesh, Mr.Monish, Ms.Priyal, Mr.Sagar & Mr.Debu
Bound together by a shared, deep reverence for nature. Wildlife photography has a beautiful way of stripping away ego, teaching everyone to remain grounded and respectful.
Our eccentric and memorable cast included:
- Mr. Vittesh Ji (The Ageless Motivator): Positioned on the far right of our group lineup, this retired banker in his early 60s from Lucknow was the heartbeat of our team. He possessed an incredible knowledge of Indian wildlife and a grit that completely defied his age—matching the youngest members of the team step for step with a warm, welcoming smile.
- Anik Da (The Ultimate Learner): In his late 40s but possessing the boundless curiosity of a kid in a toy store. Despite having massive wildlife experience under his belt, he was always eager to learn, bursting with non-stop humor, and constantly ready to offer a helping hand or render advice.
- Monish Bhai (The Silent Observer): In his late 30s, Monish is a experienced bird observer who has attended a fair amount of birding workshops. Sitting next to him throughout our long drives, I got to know many stories about endangered species behavior and wildlife spots. He spoke less, but whenever he did, it clearly seems to have weigtage.
- Ms. Priyal (The Multi-Talented and Fighter): Priyal Ji was the only female in our group, but she fit right in and we never had to filter our fun banters. She’s an orthodontics/dental specialist by profession who also does trading on the side. Never a complaining person during the entire trip. Outside, she’s incredibly humble and gentle, but inside, she is an absolute fighter. (Side note: Her love for cats was so infectious that I’ve literally been binge-watching cat videos ever since I got back!)
- Debu Bhai (The Gentle Soul): Debu and I formed an instant, deep brotherly bond. The most silent person in the team, his eyes constantly sparkled with joy for the wild. He is incredibly passionate about pets—especially his Stabyhoun hound—and I am already looking forward to visiting him if I ever travel to Germany. He was a universal "yes-man" (especially when offered food with love) who brought an incredibly pure energy to the group.
- Mr. Jayanta (Our High-Energy Mentor): Our pro wildlife photography mentor in his mid-30s. This guy was the engine behind our successful mission. He kept us constantly engaged, and his wildlife knowledge and creative camera skills were mind-blowing. More than just a great and creative photographer, he’s an incredibly humble, welcoming guy. Besides, I was super comfortable as he always reachable. I’m already planning to sign up for more workshops with him.
The Modus Operandi: Spotting the "Fire Fox"
Tracking a red panda is a masterclass in local coordination. Our mentor, Jayanta, stays in constant contact with a local team leader, who commands a highly skilled group of native trackers.
Pic: Trackers
These trackers are unbelievably light and fast on their feet, running through the dense jungle entirely effortless.
Their day starts in the pitch-black cold at 4:30 AM, spreading across the vast forest to locate a resting panda. It can take one hour, four hours, or an entire day—but their determination ensures no guest leaves disappointed.
The moment a panda is spotted, the coordinates are relayed. We were instructed to follow the team leader immediately, regardless of the terrain. We scrambled through mud, splashed through freezing water, and pushed past thick bamboo branches that poked us at every turn. Pants were torn and shoes were drenched, but we pushed forward, trekking a steep 150 to 200 feet straight down into the deep.
And then, it was rewarding.
The first glimpse of the Red Panda (Ailurus fulgens)
Pic: Red Panda (Ailurus fulgens)
was so profoundly beautiful that I completely forgot I was holding a camera. Roughly the size of a large house cat, it possessed the plush, fiery-red coat of a fox, the masked face of a raccoon, and a magnificent, ringed, bushy tail.
Unlike giant pandas (which belong to the bear family), red pandas belong to their own entirely independent evolutionary line: Ailuridae. They are the sole surviving species of this ancient lineage. Classified as carnivores but surviving on a diet that is 98% bamboo, their simple digestive tracts require them to sleep up to 17 hours a day just to conserve energy. With fewer than 10,000 individuals left in the wild, seeing this endangered treasure was a true honor.
Mutual Respect: The Wild & The Tribe
I really have to admire how the locals run things up there. There’s a strict rule that a group can only spend 20 to 25 minutes with a panda. This is for two great reasons: first, so other waiting groups get a chance to see it, and second, to avoid stressing out the species and disrupting their ecosystem. It’s a beautiful system of mutual respect between the wildlife and the local tribe, whose livelihoods depend entirely on this eco-tourism.
Speaking of the locals, their hospitality was out of this world. They were incredibly warm, and they served us fresh, farm-to-table food that was so light and friendly on the stomach that I couldn't stop myself from getting second helpings! Considering how high up we were and how tough it is to haul up daily essentials, the stay was way better than anything I could have expected.
The Troop Diaries (Inside Jokes!)
An adventure like this isn't complete without some hilarious memories. Here are a few inside jokes the crew will be laughing about for a long time:
- The innocent photo-bomber (featuring the dynamic duo of Debu and Priyal)
- The Driver Nemesis (a hilarious saga starring Debu)
- The "Not-So-Fine" Kiwi Wine (sampled by the curious Panda team)
- The Lost Key Affair (a frantic mystery involving Jayanta, Debu, and Vittesh Ji)
- Yeh Door Maange More - Princess Treatment (Sagar and Priyal)
- Attentive Snoring Analysis (A detailed late-night scientific study conducted by Vittesh Ji and his entertaining partner, Debu)
- Siesta Sessions in the Lap of the Himalayas (Mastered perfectly by Anik Da)
- The Activity Camp Area (A chaotic mix of push-ups, planks, grounding exercises, shifting shades, and bright mountain sun)
- The Fairy Tale of AK (The naughty boys, excluding Jayanta)
Until next time, guys—keep exploring, keep respect for the wild, and stay grounded!
